Shelburne to Lunenberg, NS

Shelburne was very quiet compared to our previous visits. The friendliest yacht club on the coast was still friendly, just empty. We spent one night then headed out. The wind was on the nose so we had a very lively sail up to Lockport Harbour. Dozens of sailboats zoomed passed us in the Marblehead to Halifax race. In Lockport, we were the only boat in the peaceful anchorage. Amy's saxophone playing roused the loons into mating calls.The next morning as we did the routine oil check, we noticed oil leaking from the plate behind the newly installed raw water pump. New worries ensued. We tightened up the nuts and hoped for the best. The wind was still out of the northeast but we had a better angle to work with and had a gorgeous sail to Port Mouton. This anchorage was more crowded (three boats) and we had to hunt for our perfect spot.

We headed out for Lunenberg the next morning with the best wind of the week. Although it was out of the east, our angle was even better than the day before so it was just a one tack day. Later on in the afternoon, the wind was behind us so we were able to deploy our whisker pole and enjoy a wing and wing sail all the way to Lunenberg Harbour. It ranked as one of our best sailing days ever. And good thing, too, since we still had this new oil leak to worry us.

Lunenberg is a little picture book village with brightly colored houses perched on a hillside. It used to be a major fishing port and is now home to one of the best maritime museums anywhere. It is also home to Bluenose II, a replica of the famous Bluenose fishing schooner, which won many a race. The people of Lunenberg are a friendly bunch. Everyone says hello on the street and you can sit in a cyber cafe 'til the cows come home and never be chased out no matter how crowded it gets.

In Lunenberg, we poured through the engine manuals and at first, thought the problem might be bad oil. We were about to change it but after reading the label on the oil jug, we figured that wasn't the issue. Then we noticed that the coolant was low. We checked the dipstick several times and could not get a reading. We had heard from the mechanic in Cape May that if you check the stick and don't get a reading, it could mean that the coolant has leaked into the oil which means a seal has given out. We began suspecting the worst. We asked some folks working on a nearby boat if they could recommend a local mechanic. Without hestitation, they said, Kenny Knickle, prounced Kanickel.

We gave him a call and he came out that evening at 5:30. Kenny it turns out, is in very high demand. He said all the other local mechanics had moved out to Alberta to work in the oil fields. He diagnosed our problems very quickly. The coolant was leaking out from a hose connection which had nothing to do with the oil leak. We had replaced many hoses before the trip and some just needed re-tightening due to normal settling in. The oil leak from the pump was similar. The nuts just needed more tightening than we had given them. The right size tools did the trick. He then gave us this advice: "Go tie up securely to a dock and put the boat in forward and give it full throttle for one hour. Then add some Lucas oil stabilizer." For all his time and advice, he charged us nearly nothing.

We went to a nearby dock on Saturday and did the exercise Kenny had recommended. Black smoke billowed for an hour and coated the transom in soot. Kenny Kurlychek then had to do a thorough cleaning and in the process, saw some rope around the prop. A

number of attemps with the boat hook only proved that the material was indeed rope and not seaweed. We tried taping a knife to the boat hook in order to cut it away but this did not work. So, Kenny Kurlychek had to don his wet suit and go for a swim. Luckily, the rope came off quickly and Kenny Kurlychek did not get too cold. Anyway, when we checked for leaks in the motor, we were pleased to see that the one we were most concerned about, was virtually gone. Whether it goes away completely or not, we are relieved to know that the problem is not the major catastrophe we feared. Hurray.

(Begin Amy)

Right now there is a street fest and craft fest underway. There is live music in the square from 10a.m until 4 p.m. and all the merchants have their goods out on the street at half price. The craft fair is full of homemade baubles that might go well in your great aunt's house. There were some ladies selling hemp oil, which is apparently a cure for everything. I asked them some questions about it, and they inquired as to what might be ailing me.

"Club foot," I responded.

You should've seen the look on their faces.

I burst out laughing much to their relief.

Molly and Tim, Amy's sister and brother-in-law from Massachusetts will be joining us on Mary T today. The welcoming ceremony will include a shot of Captain Morgan's Private Stock rum followed by the handing out of rags and clorox to each new crew member whereupon they are told to clear a spot for themselves amongst the mold.

They will be aboard Mary T for 5 days during which time we will make our way up to Halifax. We've made arrangements for them to leave their car at a restaurant called the Knot Pub, which is off the beaten path and undiscovered by most tourists. It is the best pub in the whole world. The food is good, the ambiance cozy, and the staff efficient and friendly, so it is busy every day all of the time.

Anyway, I think it's time to finally get out of this lovely coffee shop before our butts become permanently affixed to these seats.